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Thursday, December 17, 2015

Up and Down the 190


When Arthur and I are driving the 190 we have land marks we look for.  The conversation about what they look like and what is the best name enlivens our little journeys out for groceries.  

The Pierpoint Flamingos below delighted us every time we passed them but, naturally, they had to retire when the snows came. 


 When we pass by the Artesian Spring just below Piewrpoint we always check to see how much is coming out of the pipe.  It would be lovely if someone build a spill basin of local rock.  Of course, gathering rock always reminds me of Les Bailey and the dynamite.  (see The History of Nellie Marshall and Cedar Slope, written by Arthur F. Pillsbury.)


 Now we are on the look out for the HairNet, a grid of metal which protects drivers from being struck by stones falling from the sheer cut which so improved the road.  I am still looking for a safe place to take the photo.  

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That will be coming.  But Arthur and I have lively speculative dialog about the Mill, which shows up on the right, upside of the drive, after the Hairnet.  For that, there was lots of room to pull off and take photos.  If you know the story, please, please share!




And then we wait for the Cave to appear, either going down or coming up.  The Cave was a huge, intriguing sight when I was little and nothing has changed.  Arthur stood at the entrance once, when he was small, but never ventured in.   

The Cave sighted on the way down.

The Cave sighted on the way up. 
 Then, we begin looking for a landmark which has changed over the years.  Mother picked it as 'her rock.'  At the time a Century Plant was growing out of a rounded whorl in the cliff.  Eventually, after Mom, Mary Alice Reasoner Pillsbury, died, the Century plant disappeared and we saw a round hole.  Then, another appeared.  Now it looks a little like Mom's eyes, a comforting thought. 

Mary Alice's Rock (eyes) Going Up.

Mary Alice's Rock (Eyes) on our way down
 And now the most named landmark on our journey along the 190.  We call this the Clam, the Oyster, the Shell - and the Hippie Rock, though we adopted that from a man Arthur knows.  He told Arthur Hippies used to congregate there.  Well, we wondered why, but always remember. 



At this point we begin looking for the sharpish turn leading to the Power House.  We still need a photo but, again, need to look for a place to stop and take it.  

Place Reserved

And how, we come to Point Mugu Rock, which is on the down side of the road.  Arthur said it reminds him of Point Mugu, so naturally that caught on. 

And then, the Flume.  I remember it fondly from when I was very small, but not easily nauseated so I sat in the back seat while my older brother, Cappy, who was very, very easily nauseated sat in the front passenger seat.


Flume, going up!

The next photos are all going up because stopping was easier that way.   So, now we report from the POV of approaching the Power Plant.  Eventually, we will have accumulated photos each way. 

And there it is.  Wishon Road on the Left and ahead a glimpse of the Power Station.  


 
Approaching Power Station!

 
And now, the Big Bend leading upward to Paradise

The next thing we look for going down is the Truck Crossing Sign, although it no longer says that we remember when it did so, forever after that is what we will call it.  



 And that completes our tour of amazing landmarks - for the moment. 

The History of Nellie L. Marshall and Cedar Slope



Mary Alice Reasoner Pillsbury and Dr. Arthur Francis Pillsbury


The History of Cedar Slope
by Art Pillsbury



Nellie L. Marshall was born on 15 June, 1851. She was a professional seamstress, living somewhere in the area bounded by Visalia, Porterville (or Plano). Daunt (now Springville), and Milo (A settlement at the junction of Balch Park Road and Yokohl Valley Road. There is no settlement there now.). She has been reputed to have worn a gold nugget signet ring, a present made by her cousin, James Marshall, the discoverer of gold in California. This was Sutter's Mill on the American River. The present whereabouts of the ring appears to be unknown.

In 1881 Nellie Marshall, on one of her trips into the southern Sierra, discovered the land now known as Cedar Slope, and decided to homestead. She built a log cabin on what is now lot 65, where the Clark (formerly Smith) cabin stands. [This is now the Hummel cabin.] Twenty years ago, when my family and I started going up to Cedar Slope for our vacations, the ruins of the old cabin were still there. Our children were excited when they search for, and found, the old square forged nails that she had used. She must have felled the trees on the spot for her logs, and packed in the supplies and equipment on mile back. There were no roads at that time above Springville. A little one gallon per minute spring, from where she carried her water, is just below Oak Drive on the Reasoner property west of Lot 85. She did have a neighbor, name unknown, [M. Rowland]* on the other side of the river, and a way down there of about the same vintage (the land was subsequently traded to the Forest Service for 160 acres down towards Springville.)

One Nathan (Nate) P. Dillon, his wife Zylphia, and children, who were living in Quincy, Illinois, decided in 1851 to head west. They purchased Conestoga wagons, oxen, and the necessary equipment and supplies, and the next next spring started the long trek west. Zylphia had Mormon kinfolk who had recently settled in Salt Lake City. That was a possible destination. Also, they heard many accounts of the potentials and delights of California so that was another possible destination. They started with a group similarly equipped, and with similar desires. They followed the Oregon Trail, and then cut south to Salt Lake City. After a stay there, they headed on to the California gold fields. Maybe the gold fields were too rough and lawless for them, or maybe Nate's roots were in the soil, they headed south and purchased land where Visalia is now located. They did farm, primarily growing wheat and a group under the leadership of Nate, is said to have donated some of their farm land to establish the town of Visalia. They hoped that it would become the County Seat of Tulare County, which county then included Kings and Inyo Counties.

Wheat farming kept him busy for part of the year, but there were long periods when there was nothing to do. So Nate ran a pharmacy in Visalia for a while. Then, he built and operated a grist mill, water-powered, east of Visalia on the St. Johns Branch of the Kaweah River. Wheat milling is also not a continuous activity, and he only supervised the farming by then. In looking around, he became interested in logging, and in the Big Trees. He found the land he wanted in the “Mammoth Forest” area, north of what is now known as Balch Park. And Mountain Home State Park. He homesteaded a parcel, moved his family there, and gradually purchased land father and farther up the slopes. There was an economic problem in the cost of getting lumber to the market. Above all, it was costly to move the logs very far. Therefore, he moved his lumber mill several times, each move father up the slope. His final mill was in the area now called Dillonwood. It is being looked at today as a possible ski resort of considerable promise.

Zylphia died in 1886. Nate's sister, sometime later, introduced him to her good friend, Nellie Marshall. After a short courtship, Nellie and Nate were married in Visalia, Nate's age was 71, and Nellie gave her age as 35, although she was really 40. After the marriage, they went to his home in the North Fork of the Tule country to lead a busy and happy life. Nate had had 12 children by Zylphia and had a daughter by Nellie, (a Mrs. Veda McCoy). Nellie was killed in an accident involving her wagon and horses on August 1, 1897; so Nate survived both his wives. Today the tombs of Zylphia, Nate and Nellie are to be found, side by side, in Porterville Cemetery. Nellie did have a busy life from 1891, when she married Nate, until her death in 1897, and, apparently sold her Cedar Slope homestead during this time.

In 1920 there was a road up to the powerhouse where the North Fork of the Middle Fork, Tule River, joins the Middle Fork. (Actually, from a water production standpoint, the Tule River. Besides producing more water, it is longer than any other branch of the River, and reaches higher elevation.) Brooks Gist recalls a pack trip of that year, and states that they had to start up the trail from there with their saddle horses and pack animals. All along the trail they saw the survey stakes for a road following the same route. That road must have been complete, at least as far as Camp Nelson, a year or two after 1920. For a time after the road was completed to Camp nelson, it was a one-way affair, up on the even hours, and down on the odd. Apparently, the control stated at Coffee Camp.

Ruth Bailey once told me that they had found the spot, and loved to drive up there, for a Sunday picnic. Apparently Fred and Hazelyn Hopkins, along with Les and Ruth Bailey (Les and Hazelyn were brother and sister), and with the children, went on these picnics. The area had been heavily logged, but the swmill was gone. The”Headquarters” cabin was standing, and is now on lot 33 [indicator cabin]. Also, there was a giant sawdust pile, which the children loved to slide down. Anyway, the Bailey and Hopkins families, together, decided to purchase the property, if possible. They found the owners at that time to be George and Amanda Dooley of Delano. Because the land had been so heavily logged, they were able to purchase it for $5,000.00, each family putting up $2,500.00. the deed is dated December 29, 1944, and was recorded on September 5, 1947. [L. W. Cornell had sold this property to George and Amanda Dooley on March 18, 1924 for $2,500.00. Dooley took off 1,000,000 board feet of timer before he sold the property to Bailey. *

The Bailey and Hopkins families originally stayed in the old sawmill cabin. In May 1946, Les hired Paul Gordeuk, who had been working in Springville, o do the building and developing of Cedar Slope. (Paul has spent his free time at Cedar Slope every year since he stopped working for Les. He and his wife Evelone have long had their own cabin up above the highway [now the Harr cabin].) The subdivision was developed in 1947-48, with an Alden Jones doing the surveying. While the subdivision was not officially open for sale until 1949 Les had sold three of his lots in 1947. Construction on thse lots started almost immediately. These lots were sold to Dr. Elmo Zumwalt (father of the former CO of the Navy) [Lot #7, how the Reasoner cabin], severely damaged in the snow storm of 1969 at which time it became uninhabitable. “Annex” on the property was converted and became the present cabin. - Information obtained from Muriel Reasoner] to Dr. L. Watke, [Lot #76, purchased by Tabaz in 1978, cabin burned before 1983], and to Gail Shadinger [Lot #46, now the Khoury cabin]. Dr. Watke still owns his cabin, along side of Marshall Creed, and still spends time there. Paul did much of the construction of the Zumwalt cabin, and of the “Canteen” the original store [Lot #20].

There was always fresh coffee at the Canteen, along with candy, bread, milk, and other staples. Also, a Mr. Root was working for Les, and was a barber on th eside. He had his barber chain in the Canteen. They Canteen, now remodeled into a cabin, is standing and owned by the Cotta and Franklin families of Porterville. A sign on a tree in front calls in “Fred's O'l Place”. A bit later, less dug a pond next to the Canteen, stocked it with trout, and charged people 50 cents for each fish caught.

A Mr. Flag, some time before, had moved the sawmill from Cedar Slope to Camp Nelson. After his death a few years later, it was purchased by E. E. (Bud) Lyman, and moved to Springville. About 1945 Les picked out trees in his part of the subdivision that would be in the way of access roads, plus some needed for thinning, and had Bud do the logging and hauling. Part of the deal was the rough lumber needed for the 1947 construction. This was hauled back to Cedar Slope. Part of the sugar pine was cut into short blocks and sawed into shingles at the Springville shingle mill. These same shingles are still on the old Zumwalt cabin [cabin demolished in 1988] and on the former Canteen.

In 1952 Les built a new store on Lot 5, along side of the highway. At about the same time he built a new cabin for Ruth and himself above the highway on a spot that commands a remarkable view of Cedar Slope and all of the surrounding country. [Now the McDonald cabin, P#1] Also about the same time, Fred invited many of his friend sup for a “house raising”. In two days time they put up a one room cabin. This cabin was gradually remodeled and added onto, with a major reconstruction in 1956. It is now the Watto cabin, [Lot # 4]. While next door to our cabin, [Lot #S6], we see nothing, and hear nothing, and never have, because of the dense stand of trees.

The granite around Cedar Slope is too decomposed and soft for use in making fireplaces and chimneys. Major work was underway on the highway between Cedar Slope and Quaking Aspen. This granite was quite while in appearance, very hard, and Les resolved to collect quite a bit of it. Les and Paul generally went together with a truck. Near Boulder Creek, Les noticed some particularly good rocks above a cut for the highway. He told Paul to climb up and crow bar a couple of good ones loose. Paul loosened one, and this started a tremendous rock slide, completely blocking the road. Soon, there were quite a few cars stopped, since no one could go up or down past the slide. Quite a “crew” was formed to clear the highway. Les just couldn't admit how the landslide had started, but he hated to see all of those beautiful rocks roll down the slope. Then he had a brilliant idea. He told the people that he was thinking of building a fireplace, and these rocks wight be suitable. Anyway, he persuaded the people to put the rocks he selected into his trust, rather than to roll them down the slope. He selected the rocks he wanted, and soon the truck was fill. From this trip, and others, enough rocks were collected for an immense fireplace and chimney for the new store, for his cabin [Parcel #1], and Fred's cabin and later he gave the rest to the Gists for their cabin. We long admired those fireplaces.

NOTE: I interviewed Paul after Dad had died and he told me that it was no crowbar that caused the slide but several sticks of dynamite. I suspect the story changed because many people were loathed to tell Father, an internationally respected expert in several areas, about what really happened.

There was not much other cabin construction until 1953. In that year, the Matthews [Lot # 32 – now the Harris cabin]. The Clements [Lot # 16], and the Reedys [Lot #38 – now the Russell cabin] were built. Ever since then there has been steady process until, today, some 57 cabins are served by the Cedar Slope Mutual Water Company. Three of these are above the highway, so technically not in Tract 119.

The philosophy behind cabins now is quite different than it was in 1947. Elaborate building codes and County inpections, as we know it today, were not instituted until 1962. There was some inspection of electrical wiring before electricity could be connected, and some inspection of septic tanks, but not today's strict building codes. A cabin was built as a rough summer cabin, now as a home. They were built for a 20-year life, with piers held off the ground only by cedar blocks – no concrete. Plumbing usually went up the outside of the cabins for easy repairs, and to be easily drained in the fall. Two staggered layers of 1” x 12” planks commonly served as the walls. Septic tanks were usually two lengths of concrete pipe on end, and connected. Te leach lines were about 20 feet of concrete drain tile put in shallow trench and covered. There was no electricity at Cedar Slope. However, Dr. Zumwalt, who was then serving as Mayor of Tulare, in addition to his medical practice, invited Edison officals up to his cabin for a week-end. They arranged to bring electricity to Cedar Slope from Camp Nelson while sitting around the table that he had had the German Prisoners-or-war build for him at their camp near Tulare. Charlie Reasoner has now rebuilt the original Zumwalt “annex” into a good, but small cabin. The big table will not fin into that cabin so we are lucky to have the temporary use of it in our cabin {Lot S6]. It fits well into our cabin and we would have to be without it.

Rods, 20 years ago, were simply for access and egress during the summer. Narrow dirt roads would not spoil the primitive environment, and that is what Les, in particular, wanted. Les and Fred did go together at first on the roads ,sharing the cost. Together, they spent $1,283.00 on the roads. But Fred was concerned that the County would not accept responsibility for the maintenance of the roads that Les put in. While the County would own them, they would be classed a “traveled right-of-way”, with the property owners responsible for all maintenance, and any paving. Therefore, Fred put of $300.00 for clearing the brush and trees, and $1,200.00 to the County to grade, drain, and pave the roads in his part of the subdivision. Thus, the County does maintain the main subdivision road, and the roads that Fred had had improved. Some of the other roads are in very bad shape today.

Fred Hopkins actually made his lots larger and fewer in number, than did Les in the Tract 119 subdivision. Fred believed that lots should average about one acre in size. While there are 85 lots in the subdivision, there are only 25 in Feed's half. Tract 119 was limited to the land below the highway and between Marshall Creek and Hopkins Creek. Both Les and Fred had considerable land left, which they sold off in various ways. In 1956, Fred Sold a large parcel to Brooks and Mabel Gist, long-time friends of the Hopkins and Bailey families. (I have thoroughly enjoyed reading two of Brooks Gist's books: “The Years Between”, about the early says in the San Joaquin Valley, and “High Sierra Adventure”.) Fred suggested that Brooks build a real log cabin. Fred and Brooks became enthused, and together cruised the land to find enough where thinning was required. Brooks felled the trees in 1957, and built the log cabin in 1958 and 1959. Brooks was no stranger to the area; his first of several pack trips, leaving from what is now the PG&E hydroplant was in 1913, and going past Camp Nelson and Cedar Slope to Whites Meadows, Trout Meadows, and on to Funston Meadows. (Incidentally, 1913 was my first of many summers spent in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, but in Yosemite, rather than in the southern Sierra.)

NOTE: See this link for information on Father's father, Arthur C. Pillsbury, the inventor of many of the photographic cameras that have shaped our world today.

Nothing has been said about how Cedar Slope was named. This had to be done before applying for the subdivision permit. Names being considered were Ponderosa, Bailey's Camp and Bull Pine Flats. Then Ruth suggested “Cedar Slope”. Possibly because Ruth was adored by all, and particularly by Les, her suggestion became law. Cedar Slope it is and always will be. The lots were originally priced at $800.00 to $1,200.00 when the subdivision officially opened in 1949.

In 1952 Les built a new store along side of Highway 10. It was basically a store, with freezers, refrigerators and grocery shelves. There were game tables such as pool and shuffle board. There was a counter where one could get short orders, coffee, cold drinks, candy and pies. Also, Les always said, “The kids need their milk”; so it was sold at Springville prices. Les often had the urge or need to be somewhere else. At such times, he would leave the cash register open, and a sign on the counter asking people to wait on themselves. When my oldest son found Les gone, which was often, he generally took over and ran the place for the fun of it. When Les returned, he would generally give Cap a few candy bars. Les often said that he never lost a dine by his informal storekeeping. I believe it. Another thing, everything was priced in multiples of 5 cents. No pennies allowed. Making frequent excursions to the store was a ritual for all of the children around. Ruth always stayed at home, but the kids usually went up to visit her, too. And, they always flocked up there fore her regular summer Sunday School.

NOTE: Cap, myself, and Stephen our younger brother, all took turns in the store. I sold a few candy bars and cokes myself. It was lots of fun and the Store was then the community meeting house, welcoming to all ages and kinds of people who either were vacationing or passing through.

It must have been round 1960 that Les sold the store and the undeveloped “trailer park”. Les had designed the store so that the northeast room could be a bar. He actually applied for a license, but, when Ruth and Hazelyn found out about it, that room suddenly became the storage room. The new owner did put in a bar there. He also developed the trailer park by burying 3 ft. lengths of 3 ft. diameter concrete pipe, with a hole in the lids. An electrical outlet, and a water faucet, was run to each trailer site. However, in 1962, the sanitary facilities were condemned. The trailer park, still not open for public use, is now owned by Carl Tapia. [In recent years the trailer part has been open for use.[

The young man who had purchased the store apparently lost interest after a couple of years, and sold it to Carl Tapia. In the winder of 1969, the store burned down, apparently because of a faulty gas water heater. Carl rebuilt it as the Cedar Slope Inn. His avocation has always been in the are of music, and, if we listen on week-end evenings for almost 9 months out of the year, we generally can hear music coming from the Inn. And, never rock and roll. The Inn is quite an attraction for many of the adults of the Upper Tule, but no longer a mecca for the children.

The Cedar Slope Mutual Water Company was incorporated in 1947, and a permit was granted for the issuance of 89 shares of stock. The water system has always been a surface diversion from Marshall Creek. There are almost continuous seeps for a half mile above the tiny diversion dam. These seeps appear to be fed from the seepage from a meadow on the way up to Jordan Peak. The original storage tank was only two feet high, and was fed by a hose running from Marshall Creek. It was damaged by falling trees and totally inadequate. It was replaced by a 500 gallon galvanized steel sheet metal tank, which is till standing,but unused. In 1957, Charlie Reasoner, then President of the Board, Cedar Slope Mutual Water Company, arranged the purchase of a 22,000 gallon tank for $2,450.00. At the same time, the tiny diversion dam on Marshall Creek was built with volunteer help, and a pipeline installed from the dam to the tank. The capacity of the pipeline is about 55 gallons per minute, although the water right is only for 22 gallons per minute. In 1960, the new tank became inadequate and Charlie arranged the purchase of another tank of 44,000 gallons capacity to be installed next to the other tank, and connected to it. This tank cost $3,300.00 installed. Charlie, and other volunteers, did all the connecting up, making the system very flexible. Incidentally, the newest tank has a double bolted lower section, permitting the future addition of another section that would add 22,000 gallons more.

Also, at the time that Charlie was giving all of his time to the Cedar Slope Mutual Water Company, he made a start in putting in new mains and burying them. The old “invasion” pipe was put right on the surface, and was drained every fall on the Sunday following Thanksgiving. Paul Gordeuk always did this task, with the help of any others that might still be at their cabins, Subsequently, largely through the efforts of George Matthews, who is retired but receives nominal pay from the water company, the mains and laterals have now all been replaced and completely “winterized”. The water is on the year round. Further, the water is now chlorinated, and without at all affecting its food taste. All 85 lots in Tract 119, plus 5 above the highway, are all served with water. In all, 57 cabins [now there are 58 cabins and the Cedar Slope Inn using water] have been constructed, and are in use. It's an excellent water system, and we are quite pleased [a well was drilled in 1987 and chlorination is not required at this time]. Cedar Slope is a most pleasant spot for a “second home”. Those who live there keep the place neat and tidy, and clean up the litter that campers and other itinerants leave in their wake.

Finally, it might be mentioned that Les purchased another 160 acre homestead right after it had been logged. I helped him search the land for the best water supply, so that he could go ahead with the subdivision. Also, I viewed the “Indian bathtubs” where the Indians had leached, and then dried into cakes, their acorn meal. But old age crept up on Les, and he was forced to sell the land. It has been partially developed as Alpine Village. Hopefully, someone will write a history of it.

NOTE: I accompanied Father to the area that is now Alpine Village for the survey and held the stick for him when not playing in the bathtubs and exploring.


Acknowledgments:
Brooks and Mabel Gist, Paul Gordeuk, Charles and Muriel Reasoner, George matthews, and Delpha Hopkins, widow of Fred, have provided me with a wealth of information, which is incorporated herein. My sincere thanks to all of them!

References:
Floyd L. Otter, 1963. “The Men of Mammoth Forest”, Edwards Bros. Inc., Ann Arbor, Michigan.
Elaine Egenes. 1970. “The Dauntless Dillons”, Edwards Bros. Inck Ann Arbor, Michigan.

About Dr. Arthur Francis Pillsbury

Born October 10, 1904 – Died April 12, 1991

Dr. Arthur F. Pillsbury was an acknowledged expert in the field of water resources and conservation, his first job after receiving his Ph. D. from Stanford University in 1932, was to design projects for the Civilian Conservation Corp. in California. He and his new bride, Mary Alice Reasoner Pillsbury, spent the first six months of their marriage moving from place to place, living in a tent, so that Dr. Pillsbury could be on site.

Dr. Pillsbury went to work for the California University system on the Los Angeles Campus in 1933, working in both their nascent engineering department and in agriculture.

He served on the first EPA in the late 60s and because of his broad understanding of the integrative discipline of soils, agriculture, and water issues.

In 1962 Dr. Pillsbury was invited to serve on the U. S. Panel of the International Boundary Commission to work on the problem of increased salinity of the Colorado River. In 19634 he was in northern Mexico with the World Bank, in 1964 he took sabbatical leave from UCLA to be part of the world conference on the problem of salinity in the river basin. He consulted on water and irrigation problems in West Pakistan, Tehran, Iran and Israel.

Until his retirement, Dr. Pillsbury was the Director of the Water Resources Center and the Director of the Engineering and Applied Center and the Director of the Engineering and Applied Science Departments at UCLA. He also served on the Department of the Interior's task force on water quality in 1967, and the following year was appointed to the California Environmental Quality Study Council, and traveled the entire state.

In 1981 his article, “Salts of the Earth,” was published in Scientific American.

He served as Secretary-Treasurer of the Cedar Slope Mutual Water company from 1975 to 1978.